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A
BREAK FROM BREAKFAST
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| Bi
Bim Bob |
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| Chef
Diana Lee, who is responsible for the new Korean menu at Brails
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Brails is an institution. It's as essential
to Eugene as that other institution a few blocks away. It's a standby
for early birds looking to down a couple cups of coffee and some bacon
and eggs before heading off to the daily grind. It's a refuge for
late risers looking to sop up their hangovers with some biscuits and
gravy and hash browns without being judged. It's a haven for vegetarians
looking to scratch their greasy spoon itch with something more than
just potatoes and pancakes. So when I heard that Brails had started
serving dinner, I thought that just meant breakfast, but later. That's
what they do best, so why mess with a good thing, right?
Brails now has an authentic Korean menu six nights
a week, and the only breakfasty things about it are the seafood pancake
and the fried egg on top of the bi bim bob. The dinner menu mostly
features traditional Korean BBQ fare like bulgogi (a teriyaki-style
meat dish) and kalbee (sweet and salty short ribs), both of which
are delicious. Seafood dishes such as a gu jun, a pan-broiled monster
fish, spicy squid and steamed crab are also featured. For vegetarians,
the bi bim bob can be prepared without beef, and the rice dish is
served in a dol sot or hot stone pot (all the better for stirring
up the spicy flavors). But the highlight of the dinner is the banchan
or sides. Every entrée comes with a wave of side dishes such
as squid and seaweed salad, apples and yogurt, lotus roots, cellophane
noodles with mushrooms and, of course, the Korean staple, kimchee
(spicy pickled cabbage). By the end of the meal, with half of my dinner
still on the plate, I was convinced that branching out beyond breakfast
might not be such a bad idea after all. Now I just wonder if Korean
food is good for a hangover. Brails Restaurant is currently serving
dinner from 5 pm until 9 pm Monday through Saturday. (1689 Willamette
Street; 343-1542.) — Jeremy Ohmes
ALLEY
OOP
Let's not call this a review, for that would be unfair:
reviewing a restaurant on opening night? Totally uncool. Not to mention
that eating two things at a new place and passing judgement on it
as a result would be, well, somewhat wonky. But Agate Alley Bistro
and Bar, a new campus-area eatery, nonetheless deserves some Chow!
space for the complete success its April 18 grand opening seemed
to be — at least from a dining perspective. The former Saigon
Restaurant has been transformed into a charming, welcoming Northwest
restaurant — one with two outdoor seating areas, no less, which
leaves me anxiously awaiting nicer weather. Inside, the dining room
is painted in a bright but not garish yellow that makes the room seem
bigger and even airier than it is. A small waiting area with a projector
that beams movies into a picture frame separates the dining room from
the bar, which looks small at first but opens into a cozy space with
booths lining the prettily wainscoted walls and thick beams overhead
(and, let me not forget, a pair of hand-shaped chairs in one corner,
giggle-fodder for Arrested Development fans).
In the bar, there are a few telltale signs that Bel
Ami's bartender extraordinaire Jeffrey Morgenthaler had something
to do with the setup: His Richmond Gimlet is on the small but enticing
(and reasonably priced) cocktail list, and a few intriguing, tape-labeled
bottles of varying colors, rather like the ones holding housemade
syrups and such at Bel Ami, sit on the bar's upper shelves.
Agate Alley's menu is presently full of steals; I
felt like I was getting away with something when I ordered salmon
with a delicious, thick, horseradish-spiced crust for $11.50. My companion
declared the burger quite tasty; at $7, it's comparable in price to
most of Eugene's good burger options. Officially we were there for
fun, not for work, so we didn't get far into the menu, but plenty
of things cried out to be tried on a return visit: Walla Walla onion
rings, Northwest mac and cheese, seared ahi (see recipe, page 27),
seviche and more. Our waiter was frazzled (understandably) but attentive;
the place was packed with cheery, smiling faces whose drink orders
and dinners kept the staff more than busy. It felt like an auspicious
start for this comfortable little bistro, which beautifully splits
the difference between the downright casual and a slightly fancy night
out. The Agate Alley Bistro and Bar is located at 1461 E. 19th Avenue.
485-8887. — Molly Templeton
EATING
GREEN
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| Evelyn
Larkin, Eric Sorenson and Christa Margot |
When you think Eugene, you can't help but think green,
and that inevitably leads to spring. But crocuses and daffodils aren't
the only things popping up this season. Whiteaker Station is
also in full bloom after its grand opening in March.
And with spring and thoughts of fresh cut grass in
mind, Whiteaker Station aims to be more than just a coffee spot, but
an environment-friendly space as well. "We've tried to be very conscious
of the use of recycled materials," says co-owner Eric Sorenson. Towards
that effort, the ceiling and countertops in the formerly infamous
police station are milled from fallen fir trees from the backyard
of one of Sorenson's friends. "We want to infuse the organic with
the new and modern," says Sorenson.
The restaurant serves mainly organic vegan and vegetarian
bagels, soups, salads and the occasional turkey sandwich. The Station
also boasts a changing variety of homemade pastries. Breakfast will
become a part of the daily menu with the opening of the restaurant's
courtyard in the summer; also in the works are higher end tapas and,
eventually, a full bar.
However, it's not just a restaurant that makes up
the nature-minded Whiteaker Station. The 10,000 square foot building
has a botanical garden, art gallery venue and hopefully in the near
future a neighborhood electric vehicle charging station. Whiteaker
Station's goal is to have a zero carbon footprint.
While the Station's kitchen is currently limited to
deli style foods, Sorenson wants it to be clear that, "It's not just
a coffee shop, but a beverage bar with some wholesome, yummy food."
The organic, eco-friendly Whiteaker Station is now open at 520 Blair
Blvd. — Megan Udow
PARADISE
CITY CAFE | KEKAU
CHOCOLATES | LESSER KNOWN FOOD
CARTS | THE DEVINE CUPCAKE
KOBE
BURGERS | THE FORTUNE COOKIE CHRONICLES
| BRENDAN MAHANEY | CHOW
SHORTS | WORD IS …
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