By Rachael Ward
Summer is in full bloom, and for local food lovers that means trips to the farmers market to stock up on crunchy green beans, juicy tomatoes, fragrant basil, tangy berries and so much more. Here in Eugene, the farmers and vendors selling at our local markets do a superb job of showcasing the bounty and variety of our southern Willamette Valley soils — but the unsung heroes are the people behind the scenes that pull the market together each week.
Spanning thousands of years and cultures across the globe, farmers markets are rooted in our past, present and future. This August 4 to 10 is the 25th anniversary of National Farmers Market Week, coordinated by the Farmers Market Coalition. Oregon has a strong culture of buying local and supporting farmers. The Oregon Farmers Markets Association (OFMA) estimates there were 3.5 million visits made to markets in 2022.
As a farmers market lover, I always try to incorporate a market visit into my weekly routine. For me, farmers markets are public spaces that build bridges: between farmer and eater, grower and chef, neighbor and neighbor.
As our society becomes increasingly polarized, having community spaces where people with different viewpoints can interact has become more and more rare. When I’m traveling and trying to catch the non-touristy vibe of a town, I seek out the local farmers market. I know I’m guaranteed to learn something new, meet some local characters and eat some damn good food!
The best farmers markets uniquely represent their community and its values. No two markets have exactly the same vendors, produce varieties, value-added products, layouts, music or activities. Don’t believe me? Visit each of Lane County’s farmers markets (Oakridge Community Market, Lane County Farmers Market, Spencer Creek Growers Market, Veneta Downtown Farmers Market, Whiteaker Community Market, South Valley Farmers Market and Florence Farmers Market) and observe the differences!
Behind all of this local flair are the magicians themselves: market managers and staff.
Yes, that’s right, farmers markets don’t just happen! They take people, organizations, budgets, supplies and a lot of sweat to come together. The job of organizing a farmers market isn’t always a glamorous one. It involves being a Jack/Jill of all trades; waking up at the crack of dawn to meet vendors at the market site; lugging tents, tables and totes around; mitigating the myriad of problems that arise with any event; and then coming back the next week to do it all over again. The market staff I’ve met are some of the most passionate, driven and creative people I’ve known.
Yet despite all of the skill involved in pulling together a farmers market, market staff continue to be underpaid and undervalued. If they’re good at pulling the strings to create a magical market experience, it often means no one notices the work they’ve put in. A recent census from OFMA found that many markets are run by volunteers, part time or seasonal staff. Even when they are paid, it can be as low as $14 per hour with no benefits. Organizations running farmers markets are often small, lean and very grassroots by nature. Relying on stall fees, small grants and business sponsorship leaves most Oregon markets with operating budgets under $50,000.
So who supports the people who make farmers markets happen? In our state we are fortunate to have the OFMA. A testament to Oregonian’s love for farmers markets, OFMA was created in 1987 and (much like the markets it supports) was fully volunteer run for its first 20 years. Today, OFMA serves an important role in supporting our state’s 140-plus farmers markets through resource collection and creation, network building, advocacy, data collection and statewide promotion. OFMA also keeps an impressive directory of farmers markets, making it easy to find one near you whether you’re staying local or traveling across our great state.
As we come together to celebrate the 25th annual Farmers Market Week, remember to take a peek behind the welcome tent when you visit your local market. Get to know the people and organizations that organize vendors to offer you the freshest, tastiest food for your family’s table. Buy them a special treat, write a thank you note, drop a donation, or just give them some sincere gratitude this week and every week!