Neighborhoods Go Wild

My travel experience has convinced me that the best plan is to make no plans — or at least to keep plans as flexible as possible — and my experience of watching Brazil’s first match in this hubristically hopeful host nation has confirmed my conclusion that spontaneity and flexibility bear the sweetest of fruits.

I had spoken with other acquaintances about watching the match in the city’s main plaza (near the picturesque 19th-century opera house) or in the hostel where I stayed a few nights when I initially arrived in Manaus (until the price of a dorm room quadrupled overnight due to the World Cup), but the morning of the match the receptionist’s son (who takes advantage of his mother’s job in order to get a free nutritious breakfast) generously invited me to watch the match with him and others at his “humble” home.

Desirous of being surrounded by locals and witnessing their experience with the initial match of this contentious World Cup, I unequivocally said: Sim, muito obrigado pelo convite (Yes, thank you very much for the invitation).

On the way to my new friend’s peripheral neighborhood of Manaus, the streets were eerily empty. Though there was no traffic in the main streets of the city, once we got to his neighborhood we began taking “shortcuts” down narrow pathways that his motorbike likely navigated through quite smoothly on normal days. This day was not normal, however, and many different groups of neighbors had placed TVs, couches, chairs, makeshift barbecues and other obstacles in these pathways in order to watch the match as collectively and comfortably as possible within these confined and cohabited pathways.

After jumping off and on his motorbike several times in order to maneuver the many obstacles, we finally arrived to his home, where some 20 to 25 people of all ages were intently staring at a TV, yelling and gesticulating things I mostly failed to comprehend. Marcelo (Brazil’s left back) had just scored on his own goalie in the 10th minute, giving the Croats an early 1-0 lead.

Once the ball was back in play, the intent collective focus on the TV continued, though the group gradually grew much quieter. The relative silence was broken in the 29th minute when Neymar’s shot from about 22 yards out narrowly rolled past the diving Croat keeper, hit the goal post and then the back of the net. Within seconds the madness of fireworks exploding, adults screaming and children running made me feel like I was in a war zone.

After a couple minutes the scene calmed, but the battle continued. Brazil got a second goal to take the lead from a pênalti roubado (an unfairly received penalty kick) in the 70th minute, which even these fanatically biased Brazilians did not deny and, thus, did not celebrate with similar fervor.

Fervent celebrations ensued with Oscar’s lovely and well-deserved golaço (great goal) in extra time. Despite being a Thursday, the celebrations continued in this poor neighborhood of Manaus until I left around 11 pm, and I am sure they lasted much longer.

A Note From the Publisher

Dear Readers,

The last two years have been some of the hardest in Eugene Weekly’s 43 years. There were moments when keeping the paper alive felt uncertain. And yet, here we are — still publishing, still investigating, still showing up every week.

That’s because of you!

Not just because of financial support (though that matters enormously), but because of the emails, notes, conversations, encouragement and ideas you shared along the way. You reminded us why this paper exists and who it’s for.

Listening to readers has always been at the heart of Eugene Weekly. This year, that meant launching our popular weekly Activist Alert column, after many of you told us there was no single, reliable place to find information about rallies, meetings and ways to get involved. You asked. We responded.

We’ve also continued to deepen the coverage that sets Eugene Weekly apart, including our in-depth reporting on local real estate development through Bricks & Mortar — digging into what’s being built, who’s behind it and how those decisions shape our community.

And, of course, we’ve continued to bring you the stories and features many of you depend on: investigations and local government reporting, arts and culture coverage, sudoku and crossword puzzles, Savage Love, and our extensive community events calendar. We feature award-winning stories by University of Oregon student reporters getting real world journalism experience. All free. In print and online.

None of this happens by accident. It happens because readers step up and say: this matters.

As we head into a new year, please consider supporting Eugene Weekly if you’re able. Every dollar helps keep us digging, questioning, celebrating — and yes, occasionally annoying exactly the right people. We consider that a public service.

Thank you for standing with us!